Daybreak Crochet Cardigan – Free Pattern

Daybreak Crochet Cardigan - Free Pattern

I am thrilled to be sharing with you the free pattern for the Daybreak Crochet Cardigan! This crochet cardigan is made using a light weight (#3) yarn and is so easy to make and wear. It is crocheted from the top down, with no seams or buttons. Just throw it on over your favorite shirt and you are ready to go!

Since this cardigan is meant to wear over another garment, it is designed to have a loose fit. I chose to use a wool-acrylic blend for extra warmth without the bulkiness. However, feel free to use any #3 yarn you choose (checking gauge of course). I knew that I also wanted to use a self striping yarn to achieve a beautiful play on colors for this crochet cardigan. In fact, mine reminds me of the beautiful tones of pinks and gold sweeping across the sky at daybreak!

If you are interested in making a crochet cardigan that is more fitted, you may want to check out my free pattern for the Jacinda Crochet Cardigan!

Crochet Cardigan Pattern

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Daybreak Crochet Cardigan
Materials Used:
Sizes:

S, M, L, XL

Abbreviations:

ch(s) = chain(s)
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet two stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
American crochet terms used throughout

Gauge:

4″ x 4″ = 12 hdc, 10 rows

Finished Size Approximately:

Finished bust measures: S = 35″, M = 39″, L = 43″, XL = 47″
Length is customized to your preference
The fit of this crochet cardigan is designed to be loose and slightly over-sized.

Notes:

The number of stitches required per size for the Daybreak Crochet Cardigan are indicated in parenthesis as follows: (S, M, L, XL). If only one number is given, then use that number for all sizes.

Daybreak Crochet Cardigan - neck detail

Instructions:

FOR THE BODY:

Row 1:

Ch 77, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (75 sts)

Row 2:

Ch 1, [sc, dc] in 1st st, skip st, *[sc, dc] in next st, skip st; repeat from * across ending with a sc in last st, turn.

Rows 3-4:

Repeat row 2.

Row 5 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 3 sts, *2 hdc in the next st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * across, turn. (93 sts)

Rows 6-8:

Repeat row 2.

Row 9 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (111 sts)

Rows 10-12:

Repeat row 2.

Row 13 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (129 sts)

Rows 14-16:

Repeat row 2.

Row 17 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (147 sts)

Rows 18-20:

Repeat row 2.

If you are making a size S you are finished increasing and are ready to split the yoke. Skip rows 21 – 32 and continue working at row 33. For sizes M, L and XL, continue as follows.

Row 21 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (165 sts)

Rows 22-24:

Repeat row 2.

If you are making a size M you are finished increasing and are ready to split the yoke. Skip rows 25 – 32 and continue working at row 33. For sizes L and XL, continue as follows.

Row 25 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (183 sts)

Rows 26-28:

Repeat row 2.

If you are making a size L, you are finished increasing and are ready to split the yoke. Skip rows 29 – 32 and continue working at row 33. For size XL, continue as follows.

Row 29 (this is an increase row):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the 1st 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, *hdc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; repeat from * across, ending with a hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn. (201 sts)

Rows 30-32:

Repeat row 2.

Row 33 (splitting the yoke):

Ch 1, hdc in each of the first (24, 27, 30, 33) sts, ch 4, skip the next (25, 28, 31, 34) sts, hdc in each of the next (49, 55, 61, 67) sts, ch 4, skip the next (25, 28, 31, 34) sts, hdc in each of the last (24, 27, 30, 33) sts.

Row 34:

Repeat row 2 (treating the ch 4’s as regular stitches which either have a [sc,dc] worked in them or are skipped).

Row 35-36:

Repeat row 2.

Row 37:

Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. (105, 117, 129, 141) sts

Rows 38-40:

Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 37-40 until you are happy with the length. Then work the border as follows:

Ch 1, hdc in 1st st and each st across bottom edge of cardigan, continue evenly spacing hdc’s up the front side of the cardigan, around the neck, and down the opposite side (placing 2 hdc’s in each turning corner). Sl st to beginning hdc. Fasten off.

FOR THE SLEEVES:
Round 1:

With right side facing, re-attach yarn at the bottom of each armhole. Hdc evenly around the armhole and sl st to beginning hdc and turn work. (32, 36, 38, 42) sts.

Round 2:

Ch 1, [sc, dc] in 1st st, skip st, *[sc, dc] in next st, skip st; repeat from * across ending with sl st in beginning sc, turn work.

Rounds 3-4:

Repeat round 2.

Round 5:

Ch 1, hdc in each st around, ending with a sl st in beginning hdc, turn work.

Round 6-8:

Repeat round 2.

Round 9:

Repeat round 5.

Round 10-12:

Repeat round 2.

Round 13:

Repeat round 5.

Round 14-16:

Repeat round 2.

Round 17:

Repeat round 5.

Round 18-20:

Repeat round 2.

Round 21:

Repeat round 5.

Round 22-24:

Repeat round 2.

Round 25:

Repeat round 5.

Round 26-28:

Repeat round 2.

Round 29:

Repeat round 5.

Round 30-32:

Repeat round 2.

Round 33:

Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st around until last 2 sts, hdc2tog, sl st to beginning st, turn work. (30, 34, 36, 40) sts.

Round 34-36:

Repeat round 2.

Round 37:

Repeat round 33. (28, 32, 34, 38) sts.

Round 38-40:

Repeat round 2.

Round 41:

Repeat round 33. (26, 30, 32, 36) sts.

Continue repeating rounds 38-41 until sleeves are desired length. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

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11 thoughts on “Daybreak Crochet Cardigan – Free Pattern”

  1. I like the looks of this cardigan but am a size 3 x and can’t figure out what the increase are.
    Could you tell me the # increases for each size. looks like a 12 stitch increase? Help please

    1. I apologize for the delay in responding but I wanted to take some time to ponder your question to see if I could come up with a good answer. Unfortunately, I don’t have a great answer. The reason I did not write the pattern in a broader range of sizes is because I did not feel that I was getting the proportions right (neck, armhole depth, bust, etc) when I tried to take it to larger or smaller sizes. So, yes, the increase for each size is 12 stitches. You could do another couple of sets of increases after row 32 (prior to splitting the yoke) to get your stitch count up there, but then I worry that your armhole depth will be too long. Or you could add stitches to the beginning chain, but then I worry that the neck hole will be too wide and falling off the shoulders. Like I say, I just couldn’t figure this one out for a full size range and I do apologize for that. I have other patterns that go up to 3X that you may want to try. Good luck and I’m sorry I couldn’t work this pattern out to a full size range!

      1. Maybe you could get woman who are different sizes so they could try and make yours in the larger sizes, as they have more pratice doing that.
        Darlene

  2. So happy I found this pattern. I bought this colorway around Christmas in one of the Lion Brand 4-for-$10 or 5-for-$10 sales. This is the perfect use for that yarn!

    Thank you!

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